TAKE THE MIDDLE ROAD TRIP:

NICE TO MONTE CARLO, WITH ÈZE

Ah, that Travel Classic: A Drive Along the Cote d'Azure. There's no shortage of guidebook guidance and passionate postings about what drive whence to where is best and what route rules. Every forum is full of do's and don'ts and road choice for those with dreams of hurtling alongside an azure sea, slowing when the mood strikes to savor the scenery and idle awhile in a colorful village.

To each their own, in travel as in all else. And here's my own offering of a great Riviera road trip: the ride between Nice and Monte Carlo.

The appeal of Nice is in its rich history - from Greek times to the Belle Epoque to jet set center to today's come one come all kinds. Stay as close as you can to the Old Town, and, if at all possible, try to book into a sea view room along the Promenade des Anglais - the waterfront walk emblematic of the role of the British in taking Nice from sleepy to see-and-be-seen along the route of The Grand Tour.

Around the famed Flower Market in the Old Town are a host of restaurants and shops, and several standouts among the city's many churches - well worth stepping into for their splendor and for a welcome respite from the typically hectic pace of this bustle-and-sprawl metropolis.

Now on to that road trip.

Before getting to specifics, it's worth saying that there are those who suggest that for the trip between Nice and Monte Carlo trains and buses are good options.

If you're simply wanting to get from N to M these certainly are efficient ways to go. But with those options you opt of of the opportunity to stop and savor spectacular scenery or take your ease on a terrace perched above unparalleled vistas - on your own schedule. Rather than smiling and stylin' up that selfie stick and checking to shot to find the brilliant background obscured by schmutz on the train window. Or joining the screams as your top-heavy bus swings around a precipice-side corner.

To the practicalities.

There's a cluster of car rental agencies around the iconic historic hotel Le Negresco - the intersection of Boulevard Gambetta and the Promenade de Anglais. These serve as good  starting points because heading out of town involves a simple turn onto the Promenade and following it east. No matter how great the rate on a rental at an in-town location further north, any savings will be lost on your therapy bills to heal you from having dealt with the full, frenetic maze of Nice streets.

A good alternative is one of the handful of agencies by the Old Port at the eastern edge of the city, right where the three corniches begin - very little city driving involved.

And about those corniches rages the above-mentioned good-better-best debate I mentioned above. In short, there are: the Basse Corniche, at sea level, the Moyenne - our subject here - and the Haute - the low, middle and high roads respectively.

What I like about the Moyenne is that it not only serves up Bucket-List grade views to the sea but up dizzying cliffs as well.  Most compellingly, it runs right into storybook Èze Village (not to be confused with Èze-sur-Mer which is at sea level), the Medieval maze of cobblestone streets that wind up the hill to a castle ruin. Along the way and through are shops, restaurants, homes, a stunning 14th century chapel and a Mediterranean hill garden. Note that angle of ascent of the streets is steep. Very. Without a good breakfast it'll fell like climbing Kilimanjaro.

Plan a rest stop - or even a stay - at Château Eza, or any of the quaint restaurants and cafes in the village. Shopping stops are also good reasons to rest from the climb as well.

The parking lot and tourist information center at the base of the old village (don't forget to get a ticket at the pay station) is right off the main road, easily found. It fills up quickly.

If you plan a stop at Èze on the way to Monte Carlo, I would suggest planning it on your Nice-Monaco leg, leaving Nice early morning - as in at 8:30 to 9:00am when most rental agencies open - taking time to enjoy Èze before the tour buses arrive and crowds converge. You'll have your exploration, edibles and endless Kodak moments done and dusted, and descend from the old town just as the masses are moving in.

There's no rush on this road adventure. It's about 25 minutes without stops between the two cities, allowing time aplenty for pressure-free pull-overs along the way. And stop you will, guaranteed - the views are irresistible. You'll be in and out of the car like a cast member in a Benny Hill bit. Savor the scenery knowing you'll have plenty of time before your Monaco hotel check-in or sightseeing jaunt. And, on arrival into town, ample opportunity to negotiate and re-negotiate the mind-numbing maze of one-ways and hairpins of Monte Carlo, where every driver appears to be either training for the Grand Prix or being chased. Be sure to get nav with your rental, and take along an old school map as well, as you'll find that even with the best nav system you'll be challenged in your wayfinding.

Try to plan at least an overnight in Monaco. A great place to come to rest is the Port Palace, which is, as the name suggests, portside, and boasts stunning water and Prince's Palace views (be sure to ask for a room above tree level which will also open your views out above the megayachts). The hotel - a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World family (see my post on SLH here) puts you walking distance to a host of major attractions, including the Casino, and famously claims to have the city's best seafood restaurant right on the premises. I won't argue with that. And on a side note, in your exhaustion and enthusiasm, remember that pricing is by weight. Don't be shy to seek advice any of the staff, who are to a person helpful, friendly and fun. Stunning views, superb cuisine. And after coffee and dessert it's a couple of floors down to check into your room.

In planning for your return to Nice, take into account that with a late check-out and a little or a lot of getting lost, you'll be arriving in Nice at the cusp of rush hour. Nice-Monaco is a commuter route, and the Basse and Moyenne are the routes of choice. Relax and take your time.

Something to be stressed about a Moyenne drive: if you find yourself mesmerized by the Mediterranean or maddened by a tail-gating commuter, pull over. If the turns and bends are getting to you, pull over. If you're about to choke on your croissant, pull over. There are countless pockets of pavement and viewing spots along the way. And pull over carefully. Don't expect to come screeching to a Hollywood stop. Many pull-over spots are gravel-laden, and in some cases having nothing by a low wall or (yes) wooden fence to keep you and yours from becoming statistics. Nice and slow is the way to go.

Note too that there are about 6 speed traps along the way between Nice and Monaco. If the traffic is running right on speed limit, it's likely because those in the know are anticipating the cameras.

All of that said, the views, the village, the fun-to-drive road, the appeal of this route is that you can take your time and take It all in. There's a lot of It. And it's spectacular.

- Dean Alan Innerarity | dean@deanstravel.com